Garage & Concrete Floor CoatingsEpoxy & Polyaspartic in Kelowna

Both are real, proven floor coatings — they just cure and behave differently. Epoxy is a thick, proven, cost-effective base coat that bonds hard to prepped concrete. Polyaspartic cures much faster, handles UV without ambering, and shrugs off the temperature swings we get in the Okanagan. A lot of our best floors are a hybrid: an epoxy base for build and adhesion, then a polyaspartic topcoat for speed, colour stability, and wear resistance. We'll walk you through which system fits your slab and how you use the space.

It depends on the system. As a typical range, an epoxy floor is walk-on in roughly 12 to 24 hours and drive-on in about 3 to 7 days once it's fully cured. A polyaspartic system is the fast one — often walk-on the same day, a few hours after we finish, and drive-on in about 24 hours. We'll give you exact return-to-service timing for your job based on the system and the conditions the day we coat.

Coating warranties vary by system, and we confirm the exact term for your project in writing on your quote — no guessing off a webpage. As industry-typical context: epoxy installer warranties commonly run in the range of a few years up to 5, with premium builds going longer, while polyaspartic systems commonly carry much longer coverage, often 15-year to lifetime residential. What actually makes a floor last, more than any number, is the prep — which is why we diamond-grind every slab before a drop of product goes down.

Both, and there's no job minimum. We coat residential garages, and we coat commercial and industrial floors — shops, showrooms, warehouses, mechanical rooms. The system gets matched to the traffic: a home garage and a floor that takes forklifts or rolling toolboxes all day aren't the same spec. Our crews are licensed, insured, and WorkSafeBC-covered, and we schedule commercial work to keep your space usable.

Peeling almost always comes down to bad prep — coating over a sealed, dirty, or acid-etched slab that never gave the product anything to bite into. We diamond-grind the concrete to open it up so the coating bonds mechanically, which is the single biggest reason a floor holds instead of flaking. Yellowing (ambering) is a UV thing that can show up on bare epoxy in a sunny space; a polyaspartic topcoat is UV-stable and holds its colour, which is exactly why we top a lot of floors with it.

Yes — every floor. Diamond grinding is mechanical prep: we grind the surface with diamond tooling to strip off old coatings, laitance, and contamination and open the concrete's pores so the coating can key in. It's the difference between a floor that lasts and a weekend DIY roll-on kit that lifts in a year. We don't acid-etch and we don't skip prep. If the slab has cracks or spalling, we flag it so it can be handled before we coat.

Floor coatings are priced by the square foot and by the system you choose. A polyaspartic or hybrid build costs more per foot than a basic epoxy but cures fast and stands up better to Okanagan temperature swings and hot-tire pickup. As a planning ballpark, a typical two-car garage usually lands in the low-to-mid four figures depending on the system, the prep your slab needs, and any repairs first. We don't post a flat price because no two slabs are the same — you get a firm number after a free on-site assessment. See our cost guide for how the ranges work.

Usually, yes — an old slab is what diamond grinding is built for. Grinding takes the surface back to clean, sound concrete, and stains and old coatings come off in the process. Cracks and spalling are a separate thing: we flag any structural cracks or crumbling on the assessment so they can be patched before coating, because a coating is a finish, not a repair. If the slab is sound underneath, age and stains are rarely a dealbreaker.